Cali smog BS.

cali smog BS. explained :)

2 splits - OB1 car and OBD2 car.

if your car is OBD1 - 1992-1995 mid, your life is easy.

california smog checks only a few things:

#1. no CEL
#2 no loose crap in the engine bay- everythign is OEM looking and such
#3. sniffer. have a proper cat and if its healthy, it will pass. AWD means no dyno, just 2 speed idle

if you pass all those, AND your smog tec dosnt know you have a JDM ej20 in your engine bay you are A-OK.

id your car is OBD2 1996+ you have to deal with a pain in the ass.

#1. bribe smog guy and get illegal smog. easiest way to do it, going rate in SJ was ~ 300 or so.
#2. usdm EJ205/Ej257 swap. stuff in the full motor and electronics - its really the electronics that pass OBD2, the JDM and usdm mechnicals are almost identical.
#3. JDM ej207 or Ej205 AVCS + usdm wrx ej205 wiring and ecu and intake manifold for TGV's to pass smog. once you pass, remove the weak usdm TGV manifold and swap ecu's to JDM. then you have it.

obviously the obvious needs to be done.

- proper wiring - done up right, no cel's and weird stuff.
- no loose crap, no riceboy BOV or you wont pass visual, engine bay has to look OEM
- you have to run cats and not have exhaust leak or sniffer may be hard. many people pass without cats, but if u going to do it, do it once and do it well.

pedalbox whatnots

swapstar productions

clutch pedal box specifics:

a pedal box includes the brake/clutch pedal and the gas pedal. u dont need the gas pedal, thers no differance. u dotn even need to remove the cable to install hte other 2.

u can get one at the dealer for a huge amount of money brand new or a J-yard like the one i listed above.

shoudl cost liek $100 or so.

what will work is listed above in the post too. u can read rite?

same with the line business.

if u get the USA GC8 2.5RS, u can use oem everything, pedalbox, clutch MC, hardline, bracket to firewall, soft line, etc.

no matter what, a turbo clutch needs a turbo slave cylinder, so it would be up to u to find a slave cylinder from a hydro clutch turbo car.
*******************************

assuming the convertor is driving either

A: FWD with cable clutchimpreza, AWD impreza with cable clutch, or AWD impreza with hydro clutch and NA transmission

there are:

LHD/RHD cable clutch cars
LHD/RHD NA hydro clutch cars
LHD/RHD Turbo hydro clutch cars.

for a turbo trans:

***pedal box can use: ***
LHD hydro clutch cars
LHD hydro AND turbo clutch cars.

***clutch MC can use:***
LHD Hydro NA
LHD hydro turbo
RHD Hydro turbo - with modification to shaft

***clutch line use:***
LHD GC8 hardline/bracket/softline
LHD GDA hardline/bracket/softline --MAY NOT WORK forsure (however i think it can work - ill check it on my friends car)
RHD GC8 hardline (custom bend) LHD GC8 2.5rs bracket + soft line
OR the easiest solution. custom stainless steel line with adapter to bipass usage of hard line and 90 deg. bend at MC

***clutch slave cylinder use:***
LHD or RHD GDA WRX USDM /not USDM
LHD or RHD GC8 JDM EDM UK TDM ADM WRX (basically everywhere but USDM)
USDM Legacy turbo 91-94 EJ22

FWD to AWD conversion info

swapstar productions

FWD->AWD converison how to:

the car:
93 FWD impreza L. cable actulated clutch, FWD axels, FWD small diameter clutch/friction disc, flyhweel

what went in:

94 WRX-STI 4.11 turbo trans, hydro pull style clutch,
GDA USDM WRX exedy clutch and light flywheel,
springs and clips and misc hardware from 94 legacy turbo
97 JDM 4.11 rear LSD diff, axels,
94 JDM driveshaft,
02-03 USDM GDA sti transmission mount,
94 JDM trans H-member(centre/front brace)
01 RS trans h-member rear brace
94 JDM WRX-STI shift linkage
99 USDM 2.5 RS hydro pedalbox, modifitted JDM Clutch MC (shaft should be shortened 2.25 inches) with silly RHD heat shield
stainless steel custom clutch line (fabbed locally)
95 impreza L AWD diff x-member and braces/brackets
1 front axel from 96 legacy 2.2L
1 front axel from JDM 94 WRX

parts already in the car from previous AWD rear end conversion:

98 outback hubs, rear x-member, lateral links,
96 impreza outback e-brake cables,
94 impreza AWD gas tank,
whiteline endlinks, fram mount pads
20mm STI rear sway bar
STI v6 struts/springs

yeha. thats my crazy parts list. not to mention the vented 1 pot rear brake upgrade (JDM WRX or USDM legacy turbo) that went on at the same time, and the frantic business what not.

okay, so u have a FWD. u want AWD. on top of it u want a JDM gearbox from a turbo car.

#1. find about $2K or so
start collecting parts, MAD MAD MAD parts.


the break down*********

trans- the JDM 4.11 trans i got outa a front clip, it came with shift linkage, incomplete trans mount brace, worn out trans mount, slave cylinder with cut flex line, JDM RHD pedal box, RHD clutch MC with shaft too long and funny heat shield and wrong side metal line

what u need:
RHD JDM pedalbox DONT Work. the clutch MC is on the wrong side. u can reuse the clutch MC, but u need to shorten the shaft about 2.25 inches. or get a MC from a USA car. $45 is what they cost used

USA hydrolic pedalbox assembly. u need clutch/brake pedals
canidates to pillage in order of un-obtainum:

usa turbo legacy 5 speed
outback/legacy 2.5 manual
98-01 GC8 2.5 RS
GDA WRX - stimpy says it dosnt fit, ive seen it fit in a 98 2.5RS
dealer. about $350 AND u gota order a million little parts and put it all togeather. bad deal

i got mine for $100+$25 for overnight outa a 99 RS from a j-yard. 1.800.248.yard -brickyard in indiana

MC: if u use the USDM (GC8 ideal) part, get the hardline, the soft line and just plug and play it. if u use the JDM, screw the hardline adn get a custom stainless steel line. about 16" is good, cheaper than buying a hardline $15?, a bracket $15, and a soft line $27.

trans mount- FWD and AWD are completely differnt, by the time u think about doing this u should have a giant box of bolts in all sorts and sizes -HOPEFULLY,or a j-yard that u can grab everyhing at. otherwise u WILL PAY. DEARLY for thses little things.

the AWD trans has a front brace (r-L), a middle bar (F-R), and a rear brace (R-L). the trans mount hang out on the middle bar, 14mm/17mm hardware required. forgot the specs bc i have a giant box o screws/nuts. u need little cusions between the pieces and special plate things (2) one has spaces welded on it, one has 2 studs for it. go to your parts dep. and get a diagram for a 99 2.5RS or somthing. any AWD impreza should work. the pieces new are $$$. paid $75 for the rear brace and about $45 for misc crap ineeded related to it. get it form your J-yard if at all possible.

shift linkage:

im guessing the parts from a GC8 2.5RS or any AWD will work, i dont know for sure. i got my misc nuts/bolts. spacer thing at the dealer from a 94 legacy turbo. also $$$, get it intack if possible, again do the diagram thingy.

clutch:

the trans has a few things attached to it:
slave cylinder -specific to turbo car, NA wont work
giant round shaft thingy that the clutch fork pivots on
end bolt/slug that keeps the shaft in
clutch fork
spacer thingy and tab for spring guy to clip on to on the outside of the shift fork
spring to keep the clutch fork pulled forward
rubber boot - i got one from a 94 legacy turbo -$17
throwout bearing -any turbo car(legacy, usa WRX) will work
pilot bearing- all subaru is the same
flywheel- JDM GC8 turbo is same as USA wrx and legacy turbo, im using a 14# exedy USA wrx part
clutch cover - usa wrx and JDM gc8 wrx is the same. im using EXedy part for USA wrx
friction disc. same as the previous 2 things.
starter - all manual trans subaru is the same. im using OEM 1.8L FWD 5 speed one from 1993.

so the trans is taken care of.

driveshaft:

several styles of driveshaft exist. theres a kind wiht small holes and a slot on one side, theres a kind with big holes and spacer/cusions on each end, etc.

find out waht driveshaft u have and get the parts required for it. i hadthe slotted kind, supposedly all 5 speed driveshaft from impreza should work.

rear diff. if u have a 4.11, a 98-01 GC8 RS is 4.11, 00-01 is LSD, if u get LSD u need the LSD axels too. USDM AT wrx is 4.11 LSD, most likely the wagon axels are what u need, sedan may have widetrack and are longer??

u need also a rear diff Xmember, any AWD impreza will work. its got the 4 studs to bolt the diff into, the cover plate for the front, the rear mounting bolt / plate

okay. thats what i had to do

IF u havnt convered your rear end yet........

u need a AWD gas tank, AWD (disc brake) hubs lines .knuckles. calipers. rotors. the whole shabang, AWD lateral links, AWD disc e-brake cables, AWD struts/springs, might as well do the rear sway bar swap as well, get the links, the frame mounts, endlinks, the bar, etc.

yeah

that is my write up on my FWD--->awd converison. it was pretty nuts.

pixors

moose caboose

linkhere

swapstar productions

www.swapstarproductions.com

Diffs. - for What is a diff, please go to howstuffworks.com


Front LSD:

Q: I want a front lsd -

why? unless you are on the gravel (i.e. you own a rally car, not a fanboy car), you need not apply. There are circumstances (SCCA prosolo contenders, 500 awhp), that justify a front LSD, but for the most part its an extra expense that you would be better allocating to your food budget, girlfriend budget, etc.

Q: how much does a front LSD cost:

- $800 or so depending on the diff, then the labor to a transmission shop to pull the gearbox, break it open, and install it. I would budget $1500 or so.

Q: which JDM gearboxes had front LSD / How much will it cost me for one:

version 5/6 sti-RA only, version 7/8 RA, usdm sti as well. budget $3000 for starters for the 5mt JDM gearboxes. quite rare and tought to come by.


Centre LSD -

Q: I want a DCCD, Do i need a dccd?:

no. DCCD only comes in STi-RA models from version 2+. if you are going for the DCCD Look, you can buy the dccd button alone for $45 new. that completes the look. DCCD is not really that useful, many people are slower with DCCD than without it.

If you are looking to make your AWD driveline more rear torque biased, then we can talk. STi 15kg and 20KG centre diff does just that, so do the Cusco and KAAZ centre diff products. I have a dccd in my car, i leave it default rear biased 65/35. its really the same as if i had an aftermarket, but am hampered with an annoying little turny wheel that riceboys like to drool over :P

the car is easier to drive with the stock 50:50 centre diff. if you are overpowering the centre diff, or desire a more rear biased driveline for competition purposes, then the aftermarket parts are good to consider.

rear LSD -

How to fit a rear LSD on my car:

Rear LSD is the one of the 3 diffs that is arguably useful. on a Low power NA car - ej25/22/18, you may have more fun with an open rear diff, unless you are planning on loosing time in corners by sliding the car too much. Sliding is fun.

you can AWD lift-off drift a Ej18 with open diffs at 80mph. Just turn in hot and lift off to unweigh the rear end, then WOT to exit.

rear LSD will make your car want to go straight. On snow or dirt its quite useful, same for rain. Dry traction with good tires, you quite possibly might not notice it at all.

Q: Viscous LSD: worth the trouble?

If i was in a snowstorm, I'd rather have a VLSD than no lsd. If given the choice however, VLSD is almost a waste of time to instal. unless bought for very very cheap, I'd pass and wait it out for a JDM Mechanical R160 unit.

Q: Mechanical R160- which cars had it?

JDM sti's tend to come with Mechanical R160's. Subaru and part spec is quite a random game though, so JDM WRX's have been known to come with them somtimes as well.

Q: What parts do I need to fit a rear Mechanical LSD?

- R160 LSD unit - ideally complete pumpkin with proper Final drive ring and pinion to fit your gearbox.
- R160 LSD axels for mechanical LSD - differnt from open and viscous
- all AWD R160 rear hubs are compatable with R160 axels. you will NOT have an r180 in your car unless you have a 2004+ GDB sti, or a JDM GC8-STi RA v3+ complete car.

* some of the early impreza L models came with tiny diffs smaller than R160, and a dogbone style mounting X member like the legacy and GDA wrx. Just swap the studs over from the diff cover and it goes right in.


R160, R180, R200-

what do these things mean?

r160- all subaru diffs are R160 - for the most part, all usdm subaru's came with R160 diffs. Dating back to the datsun 510, its about the oldest thing on the block. Very simple dissasembly, a beginner can swap ring and pinion gears in about an hour or so.

R180 - the same diff as some of the datsun Z cars and the S12 200sx, the R180 rear diff in subarus has a 180mm (or so) diameter ring gear. Very creative name, the R180 is a direct fit onto any AWD subaru X member, just need to have the proper axels and driveshaft (or custom drill small pattern R160 driveshaft bolt pattern into the R180 flange- easy to do).

R200 - rear diff from a nissan Silvia, Skyline, 300ZX. its big, dosnt fit in your subaru without a guy+welder+metal fab shop. Useful for drifting, and people who like to destroy things, we do not put R200's in subarus.